Autumn’s Bounty: Apples.
Apples are in abundance this autumn. As I write, it is October 2022 and the apple trees are full, the boughs bent with the weight of fruit like I have never seen before. We inherited six old apple trees when we moved here, twenty years ago, varieties unknown, and have planted half a dozen new ones since in what is known as ‘the chicken field’ (though we gave up having poultry this year after 35 years of keeping hens). Last year we did not have a single apple. We had sharp frosts throughout the whole of May, which killed the buds that had formed. This meant trees got a rest, and so this year produced apples in abundance. It was the same with plums, our single tree was dripping with plums, so much so that a bough broke under the weight. I must remind myself to prune it hard early next summer. We have a mixture of cookers and eaters, and as I said, names are mostly unknown. I do know one tree gives Bramleys, and another with an apple like a Cox is known as the ‘little apple tree’ because it gives thousands of small apples. The taste however is wonderful, especially with a good chunk of strong cheese.
I wrote another post about plums, which includes Mrs Portly’s wonderful plum chutney recipe:
Picking, Cooking & Preserving, Late Summer’s Plums
We have a mixture of cookers and eaters, and as I said, names are mostly unknown. I do know one tree gives Bramleys, and another with an apple like a Cox is known as the ‘little apple tree’ because it gives thousands of small apples. The taste however is wonderful, especially with a good chunk of strong cheese. We have the ‘septic tank’ apples, not because they taste like sh*t but because the tree grows over the place where the septic tank is emptied. There is the ‘soft’ apple tree because when cooked the apples go to a frothy pulp. Coincidentally, today at Hexham Farmer’s Market, you can take your apples along for someone to identify. Maybe you have a farmer’s market near you that is doing the same? We’re not that bothered – we know our trees, which cook up well, or make the best juice.
Juicing apples was a family affair this year with all hands on deck. We’ve bottled getting on for a hundred bottles, buying in boxed of bottles but also using screw-top wine bottles. We treated ourselves to a pasteuriser from Vigo Presses and this is worth its weight in gold. It heats the pressed apple juice to 75 deg which means all the bugs are killed and the juice will keep without fermenting. Be careful if you are making juice – without pasteurising you either must freeze it in plastic bottles (empty milk cartons are great for this) or keep it as cold as possible, ideally in the fridge, and drink it fairly quickly. You do not want exploding bottles!
Two other pieces of kit are a scratter and juicer. The latter is important, though a scratter is not vital, but will save getting arm ache from pounding apples in a bucket with a fence post. To make juice, you need to pulp your apples. They then go into the press. We’ve inherited an old one from Tim’s parents, but it is rather small. We are indebted to our neighbour this year who has lent us a jumbo-sized press. Much better! Vigo Presses again would be where I’d head for a press.
The grandkids love the apple juice but do let us know if it is too ‘winky’, our family word for tart.
This year, I’ve followed Pam Corbin’s method for making fruit leathers and played with a dehydrator to make this one. However, they are very easy to make by just leaving in a warm place to dry. The top of a log burner overnight is ideal. Apple crisp or dried apple rings are another way of making chemical-free and sugar-free treats for kids. I’m actually sending the dehydrator back. I don’t think the use it’ll get warrants the expense.
At the same time as the apples start falling from the trees, the fennel seeds are ready. Apple and Fennel chutney is one of our favourites and I’ve written this up.
Green tomato chutney gets made too as we clear the greenhouse ready to plant winter salad crops and perpetual spinach that will overwinter. I follow River Cottage’s Glutney recipe which, as long as the right ration of cider vinegar and sugar to fruit and veg is followed, pretty much anything can be bunged into it.
We’ve made apple jellies too, adding herbs or chopped chillies. Apples are high in pectin, so when cooked with pips and skins and then strained, they make a clear set jelly that can be sweet, as with the plum and apple jelly, or savoury – this year we’ve made apple jelly with sage (fab with cheese and fish), mint (to go with roast lamb) and chilli (ideal in a cheese sandwich). If you add the chopped herbs or chilli, leave it to cool for 20 mins or the bits with just float up to the top. They are so pretty, like snow globes and I’m planning on giving these away, and some of our chutney as Christmas gifts to friends and family.
There are two buckets out the front of the house for walkers and passers-by to help themselves to cooking or eating apples, and a sign asking for jam jars. We’ve made so much jam, chutney, and jelly that we’ve run out for the first time ever!
Of course, apples can be stored as they are if you have a dry, dark shed. Make sure there are no bruises or blemishes. Only perfect apples will keep and make certain they cannot be got at by mice. You’ll find, if stored correctly, they’ll last right through the winter.
I’ve yet to make the mincemeat for Christmas mince pies, but I will, adding homegrown apples to it. I will continue to make apple crumbles and baked apples for puddings, and freezing bags of cooked apples, marrying them up with raspberries, blackberries and plums frozen earlier.
We are so grateful to have this abundance of apples this year and are more than happy to share if anyone local wants any. It is a lot of work to cook, juice and preserve, but worth the effort when we can go to the pantry or dive in the freezer for a bag of cooked fruit to go with our winter porridge and homemade yoghurt, or some beautiful plum and apple jelly to spread on our toast.
Of course, as our granddaughter here demonstrates, the best way to eat an apple is plucked straight from the tree!
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